A couple of days ago I descended into the Metro to find the place swarming with riot police. The trains, too, were crowded with yelling groups of people and more riot police. Was it a political demonstration? Were people taking to the streets? Some kind of Halloween event? Then I saw everyone wearing the same scarves amd I realzed what was going on.
A football match.
I wonder what it is about football that has enraptured the rest of the world but has so completely escaped us Americans.
Tuesday, November 03, 2009
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Revolution Day
Don't ask me what the banner says because I don't know.
Last Friday I decided to take advantage of the Turner Exhibit at the Fine Art Museum. Much to my surprise, the exhibit was free. After I had my fill of Madonna pictures and Turner's Italian paintings I walked outside to see a crowd of people standing in Hero's Square listening to Beethoven. I recognized it because it was the 'Egmont' Overture, which I learned to play during my brief time with the Brandeis Orchestra. I had no idea what the crowd was up to, or why the were playing music by a German composer.
After the overture ended they all produced Hungarian flags and sang what I assume was the Hungarian national anthem. Apparently it was Revolution Day (which explains the free museum pass), the anniversary of the 1956 uprising which ushered it the more moderate Communism which lasted until the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Politics in Hungary are currently in a bad way. Elections are coming up the Far Right is expected to do very well. Partly because of the economic crisis, partly due to growing prejudice against Gypsies, and also because the ruling Socialist Party disgraced themselves when the former Prime Minister was caught on tape at a cabinet meeting talking at length about how terrible the economy was becoming and how they'd lied to people.
Looks like there are crazies all over.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
What Hungarians Drink
Earlier in the day, Magyars have a European-style passion for coffee. Cafes (kavezok) abound, serving the usual array of coffees, teas, espressos, lattes etc.
Later on, when something a bit stronger is needed, they turn to:
- Beer. Most Hungarian beer is pretty terrible, but there are a wide range of imported German, Belgian, and Czech beers.
- Wine. I haven't had much Hungarian wine so I can't really comment. Apparently Georgian wine is excellent, and when the Russians invaded the imports stopped. Some people talk about this wine-less period as if it were a war itself.
- Palinka. Strong fruit brandy, generally made from apricots, peaches, cherries or plums. Usually the aroma of the fruit used is very apparent.
- Unicum. This is Hungary's national bitter, and it is terrible. A dark, soupy medicinal-tasting potion for the truly intrepid.
Later on, when something a bit stronger is needed, they turn to:
- Beer. Most Hungarian beer is pretty terrible, but there are a wide range of imported German, Belgian, and Czech beers.
- Wine. I haven't had much Hungarian wine so I can't really comment. Apparently Georgian wine is excellent, and when the Russians invaded the imports stopped. Some people talk about this wine-less period as if it were a war itself.
- Palinka. Strong fruit brandy, generally made from apricots, peaches, cherries or plums. Usually the aroma of the fruit used is very apparent.
- Unicum. This is Hungary's national bitter, and it is terrible. A dark, soupy medicinal-tasting potion for the truly intrepid.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Six Thousand Words
Hero's Square
Fine Art Museum
Opera House
Fighting the Hydra
Danube Bend
The Great Synagogue
Fine Art Museum
Opera House
Fighting the Hydra
Danube Bend
The Great Synagogue
Friday, October 09, 2009
Kontroll
The Budapest Metro has a rather odd ticketing system. Tickets can be bought from a machine or from a ticket-seller, but then they are checked by people called 'Kontrollers', who stand near the entrances to the trains and ask to show your ticket. Of course if you've got two or three people checking tickets and hundreds or thousands of people using the Metro at rush hour, most of the people simply breeze through whether they have a ticket or not.
It goes without saying that being a Kontroll is a pointless and alienating profession. I've heard stories about Kontrollers simply being ignored or told to fuck off, and while of course there's a fine for being on the subway or the tram without a ticket, technically the Kontrollers can't enforce it - they have to call the police, who don't like being bothered.
A few years ago there was a movie, also called 'Kontroll', about a group of Kontrollers who live in the subway without ever going to the surface. They deal with the scorn of the public and the indifference of the suits downtown. To pass the time they dirnk during their shifts and go 'railing' - that is, having races along the tracks to see who can out-run the next train. It's mostly a fantasy but it captures the spirit of the profession fairly well.
It goes without saying that being a Kontroll is a pointless and alienating profession. I've heard stories about Kontrollers simply being ignored or told to fuck off, and while of course there's a fine for being on the subway or the tram without a ticket, technically the Kontrollers can't enforce it - they have to call the police, who don't like being bothered.
A few years ago there was a movie, also called 'Kontroll', about a group of Kontrollers who live in the subway without ever going to the surface. They deal with the scorn of the public and the indifference of the suits downtown. To pass the time they dirnk during their shifts and go 'railing' - that is, having races along the tracks to see who can out-run the next train. It's mostly a fantasy but it captures the spirit of the profession fairly well.
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