Last Saturday was the 31st aniversary of the fall of the Argentine military dictatorship. I was invited by some kids from UBA, so I went.
Someone handed me a sign with Isabel Peron´s picture and the caption ´Prison Now!´ It seems that, just like her late husband, she spent her exile in Spain, and was just recently arrested for her role in allowing the military leaders to come to power. It´s a big deal because 31 years later, no one has yet been brought to trial for what happened during the junta.
There are 30,000 people still officially ´missing´. Nost likely they´re dead, but that doesn´t stop people (it started with the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo) from gathering in front of the Congress building and demanding their safe return (¨They were taken alive, we want them back alive!¨).
I don´t think I´ve ever that many communists, socialists and anarchists in one place before. Their particular complaint is that although Kirchner´s government is officially ´justicialist´(a combination of the words ´justice´ and ´socialism´; no it does´t sound any better in Spanish) he has, like the democratic governments before him, refused to disrupt the order of things by going after the junta leaders.
Supposedly, though, this year´s march was not half as big as last year´s.
Thursday, March 29, 2007
Friday, March 16, 2007
My Run-In With Hugo Chavez
Last Friday evening, as I was preparing to leave the COPA office, I ran into a gaggle of girls talking excitedly and exchanging cell-phone information. One of them grabbed my arm:
¨Noah. Come with us. We´re going to see Hugo Chavez.¨
¨What?¨
¨He´s speaking at the Estadio Ferrocarrile in Barrio Caballito, and we´d feel safer if there was a guy.¨
¨If you think one nearsighted gringo will protect you from 50.000 riled Argentines, be my guest.¨
¨I said it´d ake us feel safer, boludo. Just come, you´ll never get this chance again.¨
So I went. The stadium was packed to the rafters, though a few police cars outside and scaffolding around the stage were the only apparent nods to security.
I never actually saw Chavez, but you could hear him from three blocks away. His speech was...different from any speech I can remember a politician givig. Maybe because it was a two-houre speech and I only stayed for the first half hour, but it seemed to lack any coherent structure such as a beggining, middle or end (or at least a beggining and middle). The most common themes were Bush-bashing and Latin American unity. Viz:
¨Bush doesnt smell like sulphur anymore. He smells like a political corpse.¨
And
¨The Northern Cowboy says we´re all sons of Washington and Bolivar. I know I´m a son of Bolivar, but he´s a son of a bitch!¨
And
¨They want ´íntegration´, but I call for union!¨
And
¨They want our oil, our water, our land. Over my dead body.¨
The Bush-bashing is fairly obvious; it´s a crowd-pleaser almost everywhere, especially if you happen to really hate the guy as Chavez does.
The union stuff, though, was the dream of Chavez´s hero, Simon Bolivar, who unsuccessfully sought to unite South America into one world power, rather like Nasser tried to do in the Middle East. Chavez hasalready spoken of Nasser admiringly, and he hardly ever stops talking about Bolivar. We´ll see.
¨Noah. Come with us. We´re going to see Hugo Chavez.¨
¨What?¨
¨He´s speaking at the Estadio Ferrocarrile in Barrio Caballito, and we´d feel safer if there was a guy.¨
¨If you think one nearsighted gringo will protect you from 50.000 riled Argentines, be my guest.¨
¨I said it´d ake us feel safer, boludo. Just come, you´ll never get this chance again.¨
So I went. The stadium was packed to the rafters, though a few police cars outside and scaffolding around the stage were the only apparent nods to security.
I never actually saw Chavez, but you could hear him from three blocks away. His speech was...different from any speech I can remember a politician givig. Maybe because it was a two-houre speech and I only stayed for the first half hour, but it seemed to lack any coherent structure such as a beggining, middle or end (or at least a beggining and middle). The most common themes were Bush-bashing and Latin American unity. Viz:
¨Bush doesnt smell like sulphur anymore. He smells like a political corpse.¨
And
¨The Northern Cowboy says we´re all sons of Washington and Bolivar. I know I´m a son of Bolivar, but he´s a son of a bitch!¨
And
¨They want ´íntegration´, but I call for union!¨
And
¨They want our oil, our water, our land. Over my dead body.¨
The Bush-bashing is fairly obvious; it´s a crowd-pleaser almost everywhere, especially if you happen to really hate the guy as Chavez does.
The union stuff, though, was the dream of Chavez´s hero, Simon Bolivar, who unsuccessfully sought to unite South America into one world power, rather like Nasser tried to do in the Middle East. Chavez hasalready spoken of Nasser admiringly, and he hardly ever stops talking about Bolivar. We´ll see.
Tuesday, March 06, 2007
Argentina - First Impressions
So I´ve been in Argentina for two weeks now. Like people told me, Buenos Aires really is a middle-class, European style city. However, three differences struck me very quickly:
1. Poverty
I live in recoleta, by far one of the nicer areas of town. Very nearby is the Avenida Sante Fe, full of higher-end shops of every description. Most of those shops don´t put their trash in dumpsters, they leave them on the sidewalk for people to come and rifle through them. The trash-diggers are generally young, well-dressed, good looking, and do most of their work in the daytime. This is considered more or less a legitimate job.
2. Labor
Back when Peron was in power, he relied on the unions for support and they responded in kind. Since then, the tendency to strike and demonstrate has been very strong. Yesterday, i headed over the cultural center only to find that it was closed because the janitors were inside tearing all the paper apart and banging on drums.
3. Banks
Not suprisingly, the financial crisis of 2001 has resulted in a rather suspicious relationship between the banks and the general public. The banks are only open five hours a day during the week, from 10 AM to 3 PM, and they usually limit how much money you can take out at one time. Even the seemingly small sum of AR $600 (about 200 USD) is considered big enough to be untouchable later in the day when most of the cash is gone. Plus, most stores give a pretty significant discount (usually about 10%) if you use cash instead of credit.
1. Poverty
I live in recoleta, by far one of the nicer areas of town. Very nearby is the Avenida Sante Fe, full of higher-end shops of every description. Most of those shops don´t put their trash in dumpsters, they leave them on the sidewalk for people to come and rifle through them. The trash-diggers are generally young, well-dressed, good looking, and do most of their work in the daytime. This is considered more or less a legitimate job.
2. Labor
Back when Peron was in power, he relied on the unions for support and they responded in kind. Since then, the tendency to strike and demonstrate has been very strong. Yesterday, i headed over the cultural center only to find that it was closed because the janitors were inside tearing all the paper apart and banging on drums.
3. Banks
Not suprisingly, the financial crisis of 2001 has resulted in a rather suspicious relationship between the banks and the general public. The banks are only open five hours a day during the week, from 10 AM to 3 PM, and they usually limit how much money you can take out at one time. Even the seemingly small sum of AR $600 (about 200 USD) is considered big enough to be untouchable later in the day when most of the cash is gone. Plus, most stores give a pretty significant discount (usually about 10%) if you use cash instead of credit.
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