About two weeks ago I was thrilled to see that the Saigon Opera House was planning to do Mozart's Bastien und Bastienne, one of his first operas and a charming little rustic comedy. I was a little put off by the fact that the brochure wasn't even printed in focus, but I put that down to the usual Vietnamese slapdash way of doing things.
Alas, four days before the opera was to be performed they announced that instead it would be replaced by a double bill of opera arias in recital and Mendelssohn's violin concerto in E minor. Much as I like those tings (and the performance was quite good), I'd really rather see Mozart. I guess my dream of seeing an actual opera in Vietnam will have to wait for the distant future.
As said, the performance was itself rather excellent save for two things: the Vietnamese singers attempting excerpts from 'Porgy and Bess' managed to make a hash of it (perhaps not unexpectedly) and the violinist insisted on doing an encore of the concerto's third movement, which delighted the crowd but ruined the symmetry of the piece. It's hard work being a snob.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Sunday, May 10, 2009
A Quick Guide to Vietnamese Fruits
Although in retrospect my roommate might be a better person to write this article...
I've already discussed the mighty durian, and Vietnam has the usual bananas (which are smaller and sweeter than usual), mangoes, pineapples, and coconuts in profusion (which, for reasons unknown, the Vietnamese like to eat with salt and fish sauce). But it also has a whole range of fruits which are totally unknown to the Western palate. they include:
Water apple
A shiny, vaguely tubular shaped fruit. As the name implies, this tastes rather like an apple (or possibly a pear) but moister. That's all there is to it.
Soursop
Has a taste rather like an apple, but more starchy with oversize seeds. Also known as a sweetsop. Go figure.
Dragon fruit
The bright magenta outside hides a white, pulpy interior filled with black seeds. Totally bland, despite the fierce name.
Mangosteen
A strange, dark-purple fruit on the outside, soft and white on the inside. Mushy and intensely sweet.
Carambola
Also known as a star fruit for obvious reasons. Has a sharp, sour taste and is even better when used in smoothies, though these are surprisingly hard to find. Also used to garnish salads and platters of fresh rolls.
Rambutan
A hairy-looking little spheroid which is in taste almost identical to a lychee, but obviously much more interesting to look at. Known as the 'hairy cherry' for people who like double entendres.
Pomelo
Almost identical to a grapefruit, but with yellow instead of pink flesh. Also less sour and so far more appetizing.
I've already discussed the mighty durian, and Vietnam has the usual bananas (which are smaller and sweeter than usual), mangoes, pineapples, and coconuts in profusion (which, for reasons unknown, the Vietnamese like to eat with salt and fish sauce). But it also has a whole range of fruits which are totally unknown to the Western palate. they include:
Water apple
A shiny, vaguely tubular shaped fruit. As the name implies, this tastes rather like an apple (or possibly a pear) but moister. That's all there is to it.Soursop
Has a taste rather like an apple, but more starchy with oversize seeds. Also known as a sweetsop. Go figure.Dragon fruit
The bright magenta outside hides a white, pulpy interior filled with black seeds. Totally bland, despite the fierce name.Mangosteen
A strange, dark-purple fruit on the outside, soft and white on the inside. Mushy and intensely sweet.Carambola
Also known as a star fruit for obvious reasons. Has a sharp, sour taste and is even better when used in smoothies, though these are surprisingly hard to find. Also used to garnish salads and platters of fresh rolls.Rambutan
A hairy-looking little spheroid which is in taste almost identical to a lychee, but obviously much more interesting to look at. Known as the 'hairy cherry' for people who like double entendres.
Pomelo
Almost identical to a grapefruit, but with yellow instead of pink flesh. Also less sour and so far more appetizing.
Friday, May 01, 2009
Communism Weekend
This weekend is a double-whammy of Vietnamese socialism. First there was April 30, Reunification Day, when north Vietnamese tanks came crashing through the gates of the South Vietnamese presidential palace and made Vietnam into one country, as it remains to this day. Immediately afterward is International Labor Day. Four day weekend!
There isn't much to tell about the festivities here, really. You'd think that at least a Communist country would go all-out for Labor Day, but apparently not. I haven't seen any parades or large patriotic demonstrations. though there are some cool propaganda posters:
Other than that, most shops in the center of town are still open to cater to the large numbers of families who need someplace to take their kids since school is out.
There isn't much to tell about the festivities here, really. You'd think that at least a Communist country would go all-out for Labor Day, but apparently not. I haven't seen any parades or large patriotic demonstrations. though there are some cool propaganda posters:
Other than that, most shops in the center of town are still open to cater to the large numbers of families who need someplace to take their kids since school is out.
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Uneasy Rider
It's seems odd that I've been blogging for almost 10 months and I've barely even mentioned Vietnam's most ubiquitous mode of conveyance: the motorbike. Sometimes it seems as if Saigon is not really a city but some kind of vast parking lot and testing ground for the two-wheeled menace. They crowd the streets (of course- but also the sidewalks, the alleys, and every place they can possibly be parked.
For people who are either semi-blind or desperately poor and cannot afford their own motorbike, the motorbike taxis (or 'xe om' or 'hugging bike', referring to the old practice of holding the driver by the waist) It's surprising to see how many of the older ones can speak English...and when they ask you where you're from and hear 'America' they tend to give a thumbs-up and say 'Ah, America very good! Numba one!'.
The reason for this becomes obvious if you talk to them a little. A high proportion of the motorbike drivers used to work for the American forces in VN or at least served in the South Vietnamese Army. After Reunification their employment options were limited and driving a motorbike was practically their only way to make a living.
The only trouble (once you can avoid being overcharged) is the at this point I happen to know my way around Saigon better than most of the drivers, but they won't listen to me either because my Vietnamese is lousy or because I'm a foreigner.
For people who are either semi-blind or desperately poor and cannot afford their own motorbike, the motorbike taxis (or 'xe om' or 'hugging bike', referring to the old practice of holding the driver by the waist) It's surprising to see how many of the older ones can speak English...and when they ask you where you're from and hear 'America' they tend to give a thumbs-up and say 'Ah, America very good! Numba one!'.
The reason for this becomes obvious if you talk to them a little. A high proportion of the motorbike drivers used to work for the American forces in VN or at least served in the South Vietnamese Army. After Reunification their employment options were limited and driving a motorbike was practically their only way to make a living.
The only trouble (once you can avoid being overcharged) is the at this point I happen to know my way around Saigon better than most of the drivers, but they won't listen to me either because my Vietnamese is lousy or because I'm a foreigner.
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